All posts by thewildernessgunclub

The 8 Must Have Items In Your Duck Hunting Gear

Every duck hunter knows you need to have a lot of duck hunting gear with you when you head out to the blind. The ability to carry all of this gear to and from the duck blind is no easy feat, so it is important to fill a blind bag and have it ready to go. When we compiled the following list, we have taken into account the fact that you already have a duck hunting gun, ammunition and decoys. So, to help you decide what duck hunting equipment is a necessity, we have listed the top eight items every waterfowl hunter should carry.

1. The first order of business and the first item on our list, is a high quality blind bag which can organize all of your gear. This is your primary piece of equipment. My favorite is the Avery Floating Blind Bag. It has enough room to carry everything a waterfowler needs. Not to mention its water repellant construction and buoyancy makes this bag an excellent choice.

2. There is no sense in going hungry while you are in the blind. Snacks and water are the next order of business. What types of snacks isn’t all that important, but items which are individually packed such as trail mix and cereal bars will be protected if, the unfortunate should happen and they get wet. Coffee or water can be taken; finding a thermos which floats is a good idea. Oh, by the way, while you’re at it, don’t forget some snacks for man’s best friend.

3. Many duck hunters head out to the blind in the pre-dawn hours much like their deer hunting counterparts. A ball cap light will help until the sun brightens up the landscape.

4. A jerk cord is a must have item. This is the simplest, yet most effective item to create motion on the water when mother nature doesn’t do it for you.

5. A good set of binoculars should be a given no matter what you are hunting. I would suggest a minimum of 8×42. This should be perfect for spotting the ducks off in the distance.

6. You never know when you will need to mend something or improvise a jerk cord in the field. Having an extra nylon cord is always a good idea. This simple, yet versatile piece of equipment can save you a lot of headaches when you are out at the blind.

7. Duck hunters spend many a cold morning in the blind. Having some hand and foot warmers will make the wait easier to take.

8. Last but definitely not least, a prepared duck hunter should have multiple duck calls to increase his chances of success. Consider having a double reed call, short reed goose call and a whistle call in your arsenal.

Being prepared when heading out to the duck hunting blind will make your duck hunting experience a more enjoyable and hopefully a more successful one. Having this essential duck hunting gear ready before you head out will help to eliminate any stress along the way.

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Coyote Hunting – A Beginner’s Guide for Successfully Calling Coyotes!

Coyote hunting is quickly becoming a popular pastime for hunters all across North America largely due to the sheer excitement it has to offer. There are few things that can get my adrenaline flowing faster than seeing a coyote rapidly closing on my position in response to the desperate pleas of my distress call. My goal here is to provide you with some basic strategies that can quickly get you up to speed on the basics of coyote calling, and help you experience the joy of calling coyotes. The tips and strategies I will discuss will be listed in order of importance to your success at calling coyotes.

The first and most important item that is crucial to your success at calling coyotes is scouting. It is a simple fact that you can’t call a coyote if there isn’t one there to be called. When you’re out in the field scouting look for scat and coyote tracks that will indicate coyotes are in the area. Also, take notes on where you repeatedly see coyotes, as these will be areas that you will want to target with your calling. Landowners are great resources to give you hints on where they are seeing coyotes on their land and where they feel would be good places to call. Look for areas that have a high concentration of the coyote’s prey, such as rabbits, prairie dogs, deer, and mice. If you seek out these types of areas, you’re sure to find coyotes.

Second in line for success at calling coyotes is set-up. How you set-up (position yourself) on stand to call is critical. Pay close attention to the direction of the wind at all times. The coyote’s sense of smell is highly adapted, and should not be ignored. When setting up, make sure you position yourself either with the wind directly in your face or with a crosswind. Coyotes are notorious for circling downwind to gain scent advantage, so the ideal set-up in my opinion would be with a crosswind and sufficient open area downwind to see any circling coyotes. It helps if you can hunt with a friend, and position him/her downwind to get any coyotes that circle your position. If you have one of the new remote controlled digital callers on the market, you can position the call upwind of your position and therefore be in the perfect position, as the coyote begins to circle. Just don’t position it to far away in case the coyote does decide to come directly into the position of the caller. It is also important to call with the sun at your back. This makes it more difficult for the coyote to see you, as they have to look directly into the sun when they approach. Another important aspect for setting up is to try and position yourself in the shade. By being in the shade, this will help conceal your position and make it more difficult for the coyote to see you. Now, putting all these items together would certainly be the perfect scenario, but in reality this isn’t always possible. Sometimes you have to sacrifice the position of the sun or your ability to sit in the shade in order to call a prime location. However, I never sacrifice wind direction in order to call an area. If the wind isn’t right, I wait to call that area another day.

The third item for successful coyote calling is camouflage. It is important to try and blend into your surroundings by matching your camouflage to the terrain you hunt. It is also critical to cover all exposed skin, including your face. Human skin is highly reflective and coyotes will pick up on this. Test this out for yourself by having a friend dress in full camouflage except for a face mask, and then have him conceal himself as if he were hunting. Now, step back several yards and see how easily he is to pick out. Now try the same experiment with your friend wearing a facemask. I bet you will be surprised at the difference. Another important component of camouflaging yourself is to limit movement when on stand. Coyotes have keen eyesight and will pick up on the slightest movement. If you must move, do so slow and deliberately.

Last but certainly not least, is the actual act of calling itself. Many of you may be surprised that I saved this for last. Don’t get me wrong, making the right sound is very important and you could be producing the most mournful distressed rabbit sound the coyote has ever heard, but unless you do all the above items correctly your chance of bagging it are greatly reduced. Learning how to use a mouth blown rabbit in distress call is a relatively simple task. Any of the calls on the market today are likely to work for you. If you don’t know the correct sound to make, I suggest buying one of the many videos on coyote calling that are on the market or buy a CD or cassette tape with a live rabbit in distress sound on it and practice along with it. Many beginners make the mistake of thinking they have to sound perfect in order to call a coyote. The truth of the matter is the coyote doesn’t care. As long as you sound like an animal in distress, you’re likely to get the attention of a coyote. The interesting thing about calling coyotes is that no two people sound exactly alike when using a particular call, but the sounds are all effective, and yours likely will be too. One other topic that hasn’t been mentioned is how long to call at each location. This depends on a lot of factors, but I typically stay 30 minutes on each stand, especially when calling open area. If you live in an area that is heavily wooded, you may only stay on stand 10-15 minutes because the sound won’t travel as far. When you are calling you will want to call for short intervals. For example, call for 20-30 seconds, wait 2 minutes, and repeat. Do this for the duration your on the stand.

These are the basics you will need to become a successful coyote caller. Study them closely and then get out in the field and call some coyotes. Once you do, I am sure you will be hooked for life just as I am. I wish you the best of luck.

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Tips for Starting a Taxidermy Business

A taxidermy business can be quite profitable as long as you have the right know-how. Many individuals will want their pets preserved, and hunters and fishermen will also seek out taxidermists to preserve their catches. Museums are also frequent customers if you’re really good at the craft.

Before starting a business, it is imperative that you have experience. Not many people will be willing to put their precious animals in your hands if you aren’t, even if you offer them a significant discount. If you don’t have experience, then take the necessary time to learn before you try to establish your business.

Whenever you start up any type of business, you will need to have a plan. You may be the best taxidermist in the world, but that won’t mean much without a solid business plan in place. It’s also a requirement to have good management skills and work ethics if you want to run a successful business. Also, you will have a very difficult time securing any financial resources without a plan.

Your taxidermy business will need to be setup in a good location. You will need to check the laws in your area, especially if you’re planning to run it out of your home. There may be issues with the local zoning laws to make this impossible. If there are issues, then you will need to find another suitable location.

Licensing and the associated fees will also be necessary. There will be laws regarding how you can run your business too. Depending on the state you’re in, you may be required to collect sales tax and send it to the state. Make sure that you find out all of this information before opening your business.

You will need to have competitive prices whenever you open your doors. The best way to find out what to set your prices as is to call around other taxidermy businesses in your area and ask them what their prices are. When you’re first starting out, you may want to charge slightly lower prices until you get more customers.

Networking will certainly help in this regard. As mentioned previously, hunters and fishermen commonly need taxidermy services. Therefore, consider reaching out to people in your area and see if they need your services. To get them on board, you may need to offer them a discount, especially if they refer some of their friends to your business.

With any type of business, you will need to get the word out to your potential customers. You will need to market your business aggressively instead of waiting for prospects to find you. Get yourself a listing in the phone book, and consider placing advertisements in your local paper.

It’s also a good idea to have a lot of business cards created and hand them out whenever you get the chance. Setting up your own website is a good idea too. You can use the website to showcase your skills so potential customers can see what you’re capable of doing.

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History of Big Game Hunting – Sport Or Survival?

The history of big game hunting is as old, or older, than man. Depending on your beliefs, big game hunting technically can go back to pre-man animals who hunt each other. For this discussion, however, we will limit to man.

In man’s history, hunting was essential to survival. Even after the skills of farming and cultivation were spread, man continued to hunt meat. As time went on, man’s hunting expanded to sport, for skin, and trophy heads. And, some unscrupulous hunters ignored laws and poached certain animals, which almost led to extermination of some species.

Today, big game hunting is an extremely popular sport. It requires licenses or permits in most areas, and big game definition varies slightly with geographical areas. However, the general range of big game includes the following animals:

Deer, Mule Deer, Coues Deer – and other varieties

Bear – various varieties

Antelope

Buffalo

Musk Ox

Water Buffalo

Lion

Mountain Lion, Cougar

Big Horn Sheep – and other varieties

Boar

Elephant

Moose – various varieties

Elk – various varieties

Wolf

Hippopotamus

Rhinoceros

Elephant

Leopard

Caribou

Rocky Mountain Goat

Big game animals have not been without threats of extinction, from overkill, and because of this conservation programs and limiting permits and licenses have worked to prevent elimination of some big game species. Part of the history of big game hunting is the conservation efforts that continue today. It is this and sportsmanship, and tough poaching laws that have maintained the ability of man continuing to do big game hunts as time passes.

Modern big game management began in 1922 with the establishment in New York of the National Collection of Heads and Horns, located in the Bronx Zoo. This was followed in the next decades by other conservation and record keeping associations. The 13th edition of the book “Records of North American Big Game” will be published in 2011. Records are based on a scoring system of points for each type of animal.

In the U.S., different states have different seasons for hunting, depending on the animals hunted, and mating seasons and birthing times. In other countries, they have their own sets of laws for big game hunting. Africa is noted for large species, and fierce animals such as the lion, which is carefully protected and hunting is limited. When there is a limited availability of licenses or permits, competition and prices are high. For example, an out of state hunting license for bull buffalo in Arizona can run over $5400 for the permit.

The high prices tend to restrict big game hunting to those persons having an amount of time and wealth, although many ordinary people will hunt smaller game like deer, which are more plentiful and have more permits.

The history of big game hunting will continue to record trophy animal hunting as long as conservation and protection efforts continue. This will allow big game hunting to be a pleasure for many hunters, and a goal for others to strive to do at a future time.

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Coyote Hunting – Playing the Wind and Other Setup Tips

Here are three key things you need to consider:

1. Never approach your hunting spot if the wind is going to blow your scent into the area that you expect the coyotes to be in. Even if there is only a 5 mile per hour breeze, coyotes more than a mile away can smell you. You will be busted before you even start. If you can’t get into your spot because of poor wind direction it’s best to save that hunting location for a later date when the wind will be more favorable.

2. When you do set up, remember that 99% of the time coyotes will attempt to circle downwind of the sound you are using. You will want to be able to see them when this happens. You need to set up where you have shooting opportunities as they circle toward the downwind side.

3. Always try to pick a downwind area that might allow a coyote a little bit of security as it approaches yet, still allows you a shot opportunity.

If you follow these three simple steps before you start calling you can greatly increase your coyote hunting success.

Recently some new products have shown up on the market designed to cover up your scent or to attract a coyote. I think most hunters are undecided on the effectiveness of these products. The chances are if a coyote gets downwind no matter what you did your hunt will be over. Unless you’re quick on the trigger or can hit a coyote running at 40 mph it’s best to avoid any chance for the coyote to get downwind.

Some more setup tips:

Your hunt starts the second you park your vehicle. If you think a coyote can see your vehicle from where you plan to set up or, from where they might approach, don’t park there. Coyotes are very leery of vehicles. Park your vehicle out of site and downwind from your hunting area. Do not slam the doors; quietly push them shut. You’re dealing with an animal that can hear a mouse squeak from 300 yards away. If you hunt, or ever get the opportunity to hunt, in some wide open areas you’ll see just how good a coyote’s hearing is.

Once you’re out of the vehicle, whisper or don’t talk at all. If you’re hunting with partners, now is not the time to stand outside your vehicle and discuss the details. This should have been done during the drive.

Move and walk as quietly as possible. Develop some hand signals with your hunting partners. When you’re walking to your spot, don’t skyline yourself. Use the surroundings to break up your outline as you walk quietly to your stand.

Don’t forget about the sun and try to use it to your advantage. It’s better to have the sun at your back and in the coyote’s face than the other way around.

Position yourself where you have a backdrop to hide your silhouette up against a bush, tree or on a hillside.

I usually like to wait about ten minutes before I start calling. This gives time for things to settle down and gives you a little time to look around and identifying areas that a coyote might approach from. They usually surprise you and come in from someplace unexpected but, sometime you’ll get lucky and one will come in exactly the way you planned it out.

Proper setup is just one part of a successful coyote hunt. Everything from scouting to calling needs to be factored in. These pointers will definitely increase your chances of a successful hunt.

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Trapping Coyotes: Sets To Trap Problem Coyote

Trapping coyotes is more rewarding compared to other furbearers. Trapping coyotes is much more gratifying because they are much more cunning and tactful than other furbearers. If you run a trap line long enough you will come across a coyote that is hard to trap. Trapping coyotes that have escaped your trap or has busted one of your sets is not an easy task. A little preparation and a little step back, trapping coyotes no matter how trap shy they are can be an easier task than once thought.

Coyote Digging Traps

Nothing is more frustrating than walking up to a trap that has been sprung by a wise coyote. Your best bet in this situation is to pull the trap because you have been had. Trapping coyotes from this location will be next to impossible. Trappers may often attribute the sprung trap to the wariness nature of the coyote, and fail to evaluate they may be the one doing something wrong.

In this situation it could be how you have set the trap or an issue with how you are carrying your trapping gear. The coyote is digging up the trap because it smells something on the trap. The most common cause for scent to be on your trap is the traps and tools/ scents are being carried in the same compartment. The best course of action is to clean your traps and keep them separate from then on. Now you are ready to reset the trap.

The Wise Coyote

Trapping coyotes that have escaped a trap before may be the hardest of all coyotes to trap. For good reason they know the potential dangers. Trapping coyotes that have had a previous encounter with a trap will avoid your set altogether if it has a faintest hint of something amiss.

In this situation a trapper must be fully aware of the entire process of making a coyote set. This includes paying very close attention to scent contamination, for example don’t put your traps in with your scents and try to make your close and yourself as scentless as possible. Also trap placement and bedding of the trap, and the creation of the coyote set.

If still you can’t trap the wise coyote try a hay set. This should be constructed in a short grassy field. First take two NO. 3 footholds and place them about 18 to 24 inches apart. Then cover the traps lightly with hay, and create a small mound of hay in between the traps. Next add an appropriate amount of gland lure or bait to the center of the mound. The set should be the size of a 2 to 3 foot circle.

The science behind the hay bale set is it place with the coyote’s instinct to catch food. Coyotes encounter hay all the time and associate it with food, generally mice. Instead of approaching the hay cautiously, they approach with ease. When going after mice coyotes jump into the air and land on the hay trying to trap the mice. But hopefully in this case it will be a trap they land on.

The Shy Coyotes

A trap shy coyote is one that is able to identify traps that are out of the ordinary surroundings. Many times a coyote is able to identify sets because of over used scents. Tappers generally use too much gland lures and baits in a basic set. This smells will be associated with the sets and will trigger alarms that will keep the trap shy coyote far away.

To remedy this try to use baits and lures that has not been used in the area yet. Try to make your own. Chances are the coyote has not smelled your homemade lure yet. Another option is to use a scent post set. Bed the trap carefully and put only a drop or two of urine from fox, coyote, or bobcat on what you are using for a post. Coyote encounter this type of scent marking all the time in the woods.

Trapping coyote that have seen all the tricks you are trying to throw at it can be frustrating at times. If a coyote isn’t falling for your sets it’s for a reason. Sometimes you need to step back and try switching it up a little, and sometimes it can be the small things that make a difference.

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7 Hot Deer Hunting Tips For Taking Big Whitetail Bucks

Looking to harvest that elusive big buck? Are you sold out to getting one or do you just dream about it? There is no education better than being out in the wilds seeing, experiencing, reading signs, adjusting to seasons, weather and other factors. You must understand that your ability to harvest a big buck will completely rely on your willingness to adjust your thinking, your tactics and your determination to find and ultimately harvest that animal you have your mind set on. Let start:

1. Taking Big Bucks Requires Exceptional Tactics. You will not bag a trophy buck by using standard techniques like everyone else. In fact, it probably does not matter if there are big bucks in the area you hunt. The truth is that if you’re using all the normal tactics you will not get the monster. The really BIG bucks are old bucks. They do not grow old by falling prey to the normal tactics the majority of hunters use. Make sense?

2. You must hunt where big bucks live! It is so obvious, yet how many days or seasons have you spent hunting in areas where you never saw a really big buck? You must realize that not all areas hold even one really big buck, let alone a few. But it is a fact that some parts of different counties in the country hold many large bucks within a given area due to quite a few factors. Things like cover, food sources and other nutrition, hunting pressure, and genetics play a huge role in finding areas that hold big bucks. We sometimes deceive ourselves. We HOPE they are there. If your overriding goal is to find that monster – you need to find out where they are and hunt there. You cannot shoot what does not exist.

3. Be selective in what you shoot – do not shoot small bucks. Think about this – in most cases after you harvest your buck you are done for the season – so if your goal is to shoot a monster why do you harvest a smaller one? Let the smaller ones go, let them mature into bigger bucks, and wait for your monster to appear. Most veteran hunters that shoot big bucks will tell you that the larger bucks follow the smaller ones out – the big ones are much more weary. That is how they get to be monsters. If you are satisfied with shooting a smaller buck than you set your goal to shoot, then you are compromising and your interest and desire are lacking. If you are committed to taking the big one, do not take the first buck you see unless it meets your goal!

4. You will find that big bucks will frequently have wet feet. Huh? Yep – find areas where there is a creek bottom or lowland wet areas such as a swamp and other wetlands. Talk to the experienced hunters who have shot big bucks…. most of them will tell you that big bucks like to frequent the heavy cover and are loners in these areas. They like the thick cover the wetlands produce because it gives them security. Also, deer are excellent swimmers. It is nothing for them to swim major rivers, let alone creeks and lakes. When pressure increases the big bucks head for cover.

5. Let the experienced and successful hunters be your role models. It is no different than any sport or avocation. If you want to be great, if you want the big prize, if you really want that big buck you need to learn and do what other successful whitetail hunters have done to harvest their big bucks. While no situation is identical, remember that the 1% or 2% of the top deer hunters are very disciplined and have developed methods and skills that work consistently. They know and talk to others about deer locations, sightings, behavior, etc. Luck has helped some over time but by and large the hunters who take the big ones year after year know things you do not. Or perhaps they are more persistent.

6. Big, Old Bucks are unique and you must adjust your hunting accordingly. Some say you have to treat them like a different animal or a different species if you’re going to take one. Besides being older, they are wiser, heavier, more mellow, slower, and much more deliberate in their actions. The fact that they got to 4, 5, or 6 years old is an indication that they found a safe way to exist and avoid the hunters. These big boys will not typically run at the slightest pressure – they may hold tight. I have heard story after story about how smart the old bucks can be – they will swim, crawl, hold tight in cover, and use their natural color and stealth methods to avoid even the most experienced hunters. You must use different tactics for these big boys.

7. Hunt long and often. There is no exception to this rule. Big bucks are seldom taken by hunters who don’t spend lots of time in the field. If you only hunt a couple hours in the morning and a couple more in the evening you’re missing some of the best hours to bag a big buck! Lots of B+C bucks are taken in the late morning and noon hours. Surprised? Also, during the rut lots of big bucks have been seen checking their scrapes during the noon hour.

Get out in the field, scout those areas, then plan your approach and tactics. There’s so much more to deer hunting tactics and methods but these 7 Hot tips are a start.

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Tree Stand – Prevent Legs From Sinking Into the Ground

Never again experience a ladder tree stand sinking into the ground. There are numerous brands of ladder tree stands for deer hunting. Many of them are constructed of hollow square tubing with no cap on the bottom section to prevent legs from sinking into the ground.

If the ladder stand is erected and put into use, the legs will progressively sink deeper into the ground with each use. When this occurs, it becomes necessary to re-secure it to the tree since the sinking has caused the seat to develop a slant that is very uncomfortable.

There are a number of ways to prevent the legs from sinking into the ground. One approach is to sink both legs into the ground to the depth of the first ladder rung which will provide adequate support to prevent further sinking. This can be difficult due to tree roots or rocks. However, if this approach is successful, you have lost some height of the ladder stand. Another disadvantage, the legs will tend to rust off while in the moist soil, creating a safety hazard.

A simple effective way to prevent the tree stand legs from sinking into the ground is by installing a support base by inserting a flattened length of metal pipe into each leg. This is accomplished as follows:

Cut two 6 inch lengths of 3/4 inch galvanized EMT metal conduit, one for each leg.

Use a hammer or vice to completely flatten five inches of each piece of pipe.

Place the flattened section of pipe in the vice. Using a rigid screw driver or other metal tool, bend the pipe to a 90 degree bend.

Insert the short round end of the metal pipe into the hollow square legs of the ladder tree stand. The flattened section of metal pipe provides a support base for each leg of the ladder.

In the event the round end of the pipe does not fit into the legs of the tree stand, it can be squared up with a few taps of a hammer for an easy fit.

An alternative method to preventing your ladder stand from sinking into the ground. This is accomplished by bolting a 3/4″ EMT metal conduit to each leg of the stand approximately one inch above the ground. This will require drilling of holes in each leg of the ladder stand and each end of the metal conduit. This will allow for well anchored legs and will not allow sinking beyond the pipe.

Each of the above techniques requires approximately the same amount of time and effort. Either technique can be used with confidence while deer hunting from your favorite ladder tree stand. The only sinking feeling you will get is after shooting your deer and realizing you missed.

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5 Ways to Care For Your Hunting Or Survival Knife

You have a great knife that you can’t leave behind when you hit the great outdoors. Your knife needs to perform to cut branches, skinning or cleaning your catch. At the end of the day or hunt your knife has performed as it should. How long your knife lasts is determined on how you care for it. To help you keep your knife in perfect condition here are a few tips to follow.

1. Specialty knives are just that, for a special purpose. For example: A skinning knife is used for that purpose only. You don’t want to use this knife to cut branches or use as a pry bar. You will only dull or ruin your knife altogether.

2.Cleaning your knife after each use is a must. The blade is important to clean, but don’t forget the handle and even the shaft. Use running water to clean your knife, remember never to soak your knife. Dry your knife thoroughly, because moisture on your knife can lead to rust, and a inefficient knife. Keeping your knife dry can be tough, especially if you are in a wet environment. Get in the habit of drying your knife off after use, especially if its your favorite knife. Use a leaf in the field to dry off your knife. If your knife is made of carbon steel, you can also use baking soda and water. Use just plain water and dish soap on stainless steel knives. Try to avoid touching your stainless steel knife. Acid left on the blade from your fingerprint can actually stain your knife, and overtime cause corrosion. Never put your knife in a automatic dishwasher, as the detergent contains abrasives and salt that can cause corrosion.

3. Oil your knife on a regular basis, this will prevent friction. Oil can provide a protective coating on the blade that keeps rust from forming. If you have a folding knife, oil is more important for the moving parts and joints. Use the same oil you use for your firearms or just household oil. Some oils can leave a aftertaste in your meat, in that case use a food grade mineral base oil. Be leary of oiling your handle as this will cause it to be slippery. Wood handles can be treated with linseed oil. Remember a little oil goes a long way. If your handle if made of rubber or artificial materials, nothing is required. But if you feel the need, treat it with armor all. Leather handles can be treated with mink oil. This also works good on sheaths. Bone or stag handles that have crevies should be cleaned with soap and water. Crevices and cracks in your knife can cause dirt buildup, which can draw moisture and can damage your knife.

4. Have your knife serviced when you notice you have a dull blade or your knife is losing its shine. If you don’t know how to sharpen your knife, it might be a good idea to take it to a professional and have them do it for you. There are professionals out there, you just have to look for them. There are even a few where you send in you knife through the mail, when they are done they send it back to you. Having a dull knife on your trip will only do more harm than good. If you have experience or think you can sharpen your knife yourself, go for it. Don’t be afraid to ask a professional for help.

5. Your knife should be store in a humidity free environment to keep it dry. Your leather sheath is a great place to store you knife in the field, but don’t keep it there for a long time. The chemicals they use in the leather sheath can cause damage to the blade of your knife. You need something non acidic to store you knife in. To store you knife for a long time, use paper and wrap your knife with it, then place it in a plastic bag with a desiccant to keep it dry.

A quality knife is designed to last a lifetime. With a little effort and proper maintenance you can enjoy your knife in the great outdoors for a long time.

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Explaining Binoculars Field of View (FOV)

Field of view is the amount of area that can be viewed through binoculars. The amount of area is the total left-right footage seen by your eyes through the binoculars.

The binoculars field of view is normally stamped on the binoculars and is typically expressed as “360FT/1000YD”. Which is read as “The field of view for these binoculars is 360 feet wide at a distance of 1000 yards”.

This means if your target was centered 1000 yards away, you would be able to also view 180 feet of terrain on both the left and right side of that target. Or if you were just scanning the terrain, you would be able to observe 360 feet of coverage at any given moment.

Better quality binoculars tend to have a field of view between 315 and 390 feet at 1000 yards. Those are general guidelines, but will satisfy field of view requirements for birding, hunting, marine activities, and most spectator sports.

Linear and Angular Field Of View.

Both of these readings will result in the same measurement at your target distance of 1000 yards.

Linear field of view is most commonly used as it is expressed in feet and yards in a factual statement (330FT/1000YD). That expression can be quickly understood to mean that at 1000 yards your will see 330 feet of left-right terrain with the binoculars.

The angular field of view is expressed in degrees. As an example, a reading of 6.3 degrees means that the view from the binoculars will expand outward 6.3 degrees from each of your eyes.

Conversion to either linear or angular field of view is done with the factor of one degree being equal to 52.5 feet.

Angular degrees of 6.3 will convert to 330.75 feet (6.3 degrees X 52.5 = 330.75 feet).

Linear feet of 330.75 will convert to 6.3 degrees (330.75 feet / 52.5 = 6.3 degrees).

Magnification Versus Field Of View.

The magnification and the field of view are two binocular features that work in opposition to each other. In general, the more powerful binoculars (12 X 50) will have a smaller field of view (290FT/1000YD), while less powerful binoculars (8 X 42) will typically have a wider field of view (380FT/1000YD).

Most binoculars tend to fall into either the 8X or the 10X magnification ranges because at higher power binoculars often have poorer quality images and smaller fields of view.

The most common linear/angular fields of view binoculars are between 6.0 degrees/315 feet and 7.5 degrees/390 feet. Wide angle binoculars begin at 8.0 degrees/420 feet and work upward.

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