How to Outsmart Crafty Whitetail Bucks

Have you ever come across a buck while out deer hunting, that seemed to be smarter than you are? If you are an avid buck hunter, I’m sure you have, as most of us have at one time or another. It seems that whatever you try to do, he always seems to be one step ahead of you, right?

Well I’m here to tell you that it doesn’t have to be that way. Deer hunting whitetail hunting tips can make a big difference in the outcome of the hunt. Let me explain a little further. It may seem like the buck can read your mind. Although it may seem this way to you, we know that he really can’t. Evasive bucks as well as all bucks do what comes naturally to them in times of perceived danger. They flee, but sometimes they only hide and wait for you to pass.

Deer habits have taught the wise old buck many tricks to evade danger!

They have many ways to be forewarned of danger, which enables them to act accordingly, sometimes even before we get a chance to lay eyes on them. Lets look at some of the ways that they become alerted to danger. Every deer born learns important survival instincts from the doe deer that bore them.

Doe deer teach their young at an early age to hide and be still in times of danger, just as all caring parents strive to do. From this we learn that doe deer, plays a very important role in the young deers life. When a doe deer perceives danger, it alerts all deer in the area of the inherent danger, in several ways.

These doe deer habits are the key to many white tailed bucks survival rate!

When a doe is out in the open and it is content at feeding, its tail will sway back and forth in the down position. A buck may be close by observing the does’ actions, but it is hidden from view. If he can see the does feeding, he can tell if they detect danger by their reactions. However, what about the buck that can’t see the does’ reactions?

If danger arises, and the doe deer are alerted to the point of taking evasive action, they will give a vocal alert. This also leads to the doe deer taking flight. When leaving an area because of a perceived danger threat, their tail will fly left and right in the upright position, which is another warning to deer in the area.

This visual warning is referred to as a flag. It can be seen rather well in heavily forested areas, thereby alerting silently other deer in the area. So as we can see, besides their own acute senses alerting them of danger, a buck also has the help of any does’ in his domain. Now, for us to outsmart these bucks, it will take effort that you may have never considered before.

We must consider a bucks domain and what it includes.

  • Feeding Areas
  • Bedding Areas
  • Watering Areas
  • Hiding Areas Or Secure areas

Why do we need to know these areas and how well do we need to know these areas?

For starters, we need to know these areas as good as the deer in the area does to be able to plan our ambush correctly. Very Important! Wind direction always plays the most important factor in our game plan as well as how the deer will react. As wind conditions and directions change so must our game plan. The why part is obvious. Because deer always try to use the wind to their advantage, so should we in considering not just our plan of attack, but also how the deer will react.

Deer habits are crucial to the success of the hunt.

This is very important. If you want to consistently down a white tailed buck, you need to learn what he will do when he is in danger and where he will head, and what route he will use in any given wind direction. If you spend enough time in his domain through out the year, and record your findings on each outing, you will know how he will react, as well as where he will go and what route he will take to get there come deer hunting season.

This my friend is how you outsmart even the craftiest of bucks. Now, some things change during the fall hunting, such as food and water availability, as well as hunter pressure, so you will need to stay on top of the changes and make the necessary adjustments to your game plan.

Let hunter pressure work for you. You already know how, where, and why the buck will react if you do your homework, so you need to be where he will head when the pressure is on.

Yes to be a successful white tailed buck hunter you need to get out there and let the buck tell you his secrets, then and only then will you be in your very best position to outsmart even the craftiest of bucks.

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How to Skin a Deer & Tools-Hunting Knives Needed

The tools of the deer-care trade are a couple of skinning knives, a sharpening steel and a handsaw. Hang a field-dressed buck in a cool (40 – 50 degrees) place as soon as possible. For easy skinning, hang a buck from a gambrel. sing your Skinning Knife, cut up and through the hide on the inside of the hind legs. Make a circular cut around the joint of each leg. With the sharp point and blade of a knife, skin out the hindquarters. Saw off the hind legs below the joints.

To open the rear of a deer for cooling and skinning, saw a little ways into the pelvis. Start by skinning down toward a deer’s neck. Grab the hide and pull, most of it will peel right off. Cut off the tail. Don’t let the long hair get on the meat. Keep pulling and skinning the hide over the ribs and down to the shoulders. If you ARE NOT going to cape a buck for mounting, cut down into the brisket as far as possible. Saw off the front legs at the joints then cut along the insides of the front legs and skin them out.

If you DO PLAN to mount a buck, make the two primary caping cuts, again using a Buck Knife, around a buck’s body behind the front legs, and along the back of its neck and out to each antler. Pull and skin the hide down over a buck’s head. Saw off a buck’s head with long cape intact. Take your trophy to a taxidermist or freeze it as soon as possible.

Check for any dirt or hair and if you find any remove at once. Cut away any blood-shot meat around the bullet holes. If you want the hide tanned, wipe the bloody side clean with a towel lay it flat and spread borax or salt on the inside of the hide. Fold it lengthwise, hair out, roll up, tie, package and head for the taxidermist’s shop. Or again, freeze it and bring it to him when you can.

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Froggin in Mississippi

“Tastes like chicken,” says Lance Zender, a local outdoorsman from the Choctaw Bayou area. Lance is that oh so very southern of species–he is a frogger.

More than 30 types of frog and toad live in the Magnolia state according to the ASA. These range from the tiny inch-long Oak toad, which is the smallest toad in North America, to the huge American bullfrog, which is the largest at over 8-inches. In between are legions of chorus frogs, narrow mouthed toads, pig frogs, barking tree frogs, leopard frogs, and gray and white Fowler’s toads. The most popular with frog hunters are the olive to brown colored pig frog which can reach 6-inches in length, the Southern Leopard which is spotted green and brown, and of course the American bullfrog. To say the least, there is a very diverse and abundant frog population in the state.

The Mississippi Department of Wildlife, Fisheries, and Parks (MDWFP) classifies frogging as Small Game Hunting along with rabbit, squirrel, raccoon, possum, and bobcat. The frog season in Mississippi lasts from April Fool’s Day to the end of September typically, and as such is the longest season of any game in the state at six full months. Currently the bag limit is set at 25 frogs and toads per night-that is fifty legs and a good meal for the whole family. Be sure to have your license, hunters ed card (if needed) and be up-to-date on your limits and seasons by visiting the MDWFP website.

Best areas to Frog

Oxbow lakes, gum ponds and almost anywhere you see lots of flying insects and lilypads is going to be an ideal place for the frogger to practice his art.

The marsh-rich Gulf Coast area, with its numerous wetlands, bayous, rivers and streams, are slightly warmer in the winter than areas north of I-20, and as such, the frog population continues to breed over the winter in many coastal estuaries. This means in the spring there is an explosion amongst the lily pads and swamp grass of frog overpopulation. These fertile breeding grounds of the Pascagoula river system for instance are home to as many as 109 species of fish, a unique species of turtle found only there, and all 30 of the known frogs in the state in its 9600-square miles of wetlands. It is quite literally a frogger’s paradise.

That’s where Lance works his magic.

Frog hunting techniques

Working from a flat-bottomed aluminum boat older than he is, Lance prowls the bayou on most weekend nights with a Q-beam spotlight and his half-brother Monroe, looking for the big bullfrogs. The team shares the hunt and the wealth, with one driving the boat and the other perched on the side, spotlight in hand.

“You look for eyes,” Lance explains. “As soon as your run that spotlight across the water, the eyes pop up like stars. Then head for the closest set.”

Once close enough to a keeper toad, it is up to the individual frogger as to how he takes them. Some people go ‘old-school’ and snatch the mesmerized fly-eater from its perch on a log or lilypad then toss it in the container. Others use a.22 rifle to pop the critter, and then scoop it up with a dip net. Still others gig for frogs, channeling the ancient hunter-gatherer with a spear experience still locked inside their DNA from before time.

“I’m a paddler,” boasts Monroe. The leather-skinned frogger explains that the term is what the locals use to describe the method of stunning the frog with a good smack of a boat paddle, then retrieving it as it floats around wondering what truck hit it.

To hold your frogs some sort of good solid container with a lid is preferred such as an ice chest, garbage can, or rubber made type container. Lance is a fan of pickle buckets with the lid tied to the bucket by a string so it does not fall out of the boat in the dark and float down the bayou. “Yea, that happened once.” Lance says

It is only natural that there is a more high-tech set who advocate fancier means of toad control. Some froggers use perch baskets. There are even local cottage industry manufacturers who sell specially made Frogging Baskets. Made with PVC coated wire and a rubber pinch top the baskets are designed to fit inside a 48-quart cooler and safely hold up to 150 frogs at a time.

That’s a lot of frog legs.

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Minnesota Bear Bait Station Regulations

Minnesota is one of the current US states that allow bear baiting by bear hunters. However, they have specific laws and regulations regarding this type of hunting practice. These regulations must be followed at all times; failure to due so can result in heavy fines and loss of hunting privileges. This article will explain the basics of Minnesota bear baiting regulations to help you follow them properly.

The first step is to know what you “cannot” use as bait for bears, below is a list of materials that are not allowed according to Minnesota hunting regulations.

  • More than 25% of an intact mammal carcass
  • Mammal meat that contains bones
  • Mammal bones
  • Waste containing; bottles, cans, plastic, paper or metal
  • Non-biodegradable materials
  • Swine (expection: cured pork)

Quick Note: You may not leave unattended 55-gallon drums, containers, garbage bags, pails plastic at a bear bait station.

In order to establish a station you must register it with the Minnesota DNR. You must mail in the required forms for an established bait station by the next available postal service day the bait station is created. All registered bait stations must display a sign of at least 6″x10″, which must be made of plastic, metal or wood. The sign must include the DNR number and driver’s license number of the owner OR the full name, address and phone number of the bait station operator. The sign must be placed no lower than 6 feet and no higher than 10 feet off the ground, and must be within 20 feet of the bait station.

You’re not allowed to establish a bear bait station within 150 yards of any registered camping site or within half a mile of a garbage dump. You cannot setup a bait station in bear permit area 22.

It should be duly noted that NO HUNTER is allowed to harvest a white bear, which was introduced in 1998. You’re not allowed to disturb bear dens or use methods to draw a bear from its den or harvest one near its den. Dogs are not allowed to be used as hunting aids, nor can you practice training dogs on bears. We hope this article has helped you learn more on bear baiting in Minnesota, if you’d like to learn more about bear hunting in general then continue below.

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What’s a "Wintu" Arrowhead?

Another arrowhead similar in size to the 1″ to 1-1/2″ long Gunther point is the Wintu. It shares many characteristics, the needle point, the sometimes serrated edges, the sharp corner barbed shape.

The primary difference between the Wintu and the Gunther is the shape of the tang which is used to mount the point on the arrow shaft.

In the Gunther point, the tang is usually a constricting, almost pointed shape, narrower at the very base. This shape results from the use of wide-based notches removed from the base edge of the point.

However, in the Wintu point the tang is made by long, narrow notches coming in toward the middle of the point from the corners or from the outer portion of the base line. This results in a flared, wider base to the tang. Sometimes, as in a gray obsidian example found by Jennifer Peterson in Siskiyou County, in far northern California in 1975, the notches are made from the very corners of the triangular arrowhead form, and extend almost all the way into the middle of the point.

I have two other examples, found by Jennifer Peterson and Pat Welch in northern California in the 1960’s and 1970’s, which illustrate quite well the basic design and knapping skill of the Wintu point makers. One is a black obsidian, the other gray. Both show a more common form of the Wintu, in which the notches are started out near the corners, from the outermost portion of the base line of the point preform. On each of these finely serrated points one of the barbs has been snapped off, perhaps at some time after they were made, possibly when used in hunts.

Aside from the single barb broken off, the points are in perfect condition, with amazingly sharp needle tips and wicked looking tiny serrations along the full length of the points’ edges. All of this work was done on arrowheads which measure barely 1 to 1-1/4 inches long and 5/8 to 3/4 of an inch in width. The tool tips used in the knapping were small enough to make 1/32 inch or less in width serrations!

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Copyright 2009, all rights reserved. F. Scott Crawford, Carrollton, Texas, USA

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Cheap Goose Decoys – Build an Economical Decoy Spread

A goose hunter does not have to spend a fortune on their decoys. There are many alternatives to purchase cheap goose decoys that are still of high quality. Let’s face it the sport of goose hunting can be get very expensive. By the time that you buy your gun, boots, and clothes, it can seem like the expenses will never end. We haven’t even talked about the most expensive item: goose decoys.

It is not uncommon for a goose hunter to have 20,30 or even 50 dozen decoys to properly set up a field for either snow goose or Canada goose hunting. At a cost of over $100 to $150 a dozen, a hunter can tie up thousands of dollars in their decoys before they ever step foot on the field to hunt. What are the alternatives to purchase cheap goose decoys that are still of high quality.

First, it is important to realize that not every decoy in your spread needs to be a fully flocked, full bodied goose decoy. This would be too expensive very expensive to build a spread. A hunter can substitute many cheaper decoys into their spread to build a highly effective spread at a reasonable cost. One technique is to purchase 2-3 dozen very high quality decoys and mix in lower cost decoys to fill in the spread. A hunter needs to realize that from 2000 plus feet a goose will not be able to see the layout with a high level of detail. The objective is to get the geese to notice the spread and lure them closer.

Brands like the carrylites and silosocks are reasonably priced and will allow a hunter to fill out a spread for a fairly economical price. These decoys can be placed closer to cover so that they are not as easily identified when geese are landing. Using your full bodied geese out in the open will still attract the geese up close even when they are landing in a field full of low cost decoys. Heck, some hunters use Clorox bottles and white rags when hunting snow geese.

One other approach to finding cheap goose decoys is to purchase used decoys from a hunter that is replacing their old decoys or retiring from the field. A great place to look for cheap goose decoys is online. Great bargains can be had buying used decoys in the off season. Keep your eyes peeled in the classifieds and other online sales channels for great deals on your dekes.

A hunter can go broke buying a entire decoy spread made up of brand new full bodied, feeder decoys. However, a hunter needs to have enough decoys to build a decoy spread that will attract geese to the field. The key to saving some cash is finding great deals on cheap goose decoys.

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Deer Hunting Trail Cameras – Brief History

Over the past 3 decades there has been a lot of people, hunters, outdoor enthusiast, birders and more are wanting to see wildlife in a more natural setting. As well as wildlife management organizations.

With the advance in the technology of digital photography in the last 10 – 15 years that ‘want’ has become a reality with the advent of deer hunting trail cameras or trail cams for short.

Even as the technology has made deer cameras more accessible and inexpensive, these were not the first trail cams used.

Trail cameras actually started back in the late 1800s, if you can imagine that. Wildlife photographers would set up bulky box cameras on trip wires to catch wildlife in action in a natural setting. Of course these cameras were huge and did not take as many photos as today’s deer hunting trail cameras do but they would get some great pictures for the time and could publish them in wildlife magazines as they do today.

By the 1950s wildlife photographers were using 35mm cameras that could take many more photos, as many as 36 shots could be taken from those ‘modern day’ trail cams.

As the technology of deer hunting trail cameras rose in the ’80s and ’90s motion detection was being added to the still limited but useful 35mm cameras. Downfalls of the motion detection was there were lots of moving leaf pictures taken. So still not as perfect a system by today’s standards.

Although deer hunting trail cameras have been around for quite a while in one form or another, the use of these trail cams is still in use today and getting better every year.

There are many different types of trail cams on the market today. Choosing the right type, size, color, and features can make all the difference. Learn all you can about the different types and features before you purchase your deer hunting camera.

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Gun Cleaning Guide – Cleaning a Shotgun, Rifle Or Handgun Like a Pro!

Step 1

Scrub out your gun bore with the correct size Phosphor bronze brush and use Bor-Solv supreme bore solvent. This will if used vigorously remove all powder fouling and residue. Occasionally a Bristle brush may be preferred as being made of natural hair it is hydroscopic. This fact will help this brush retain more of it’s bore solvent chemical and for a longer period. In some applications a bristle brush can therefore be an improvement over a phosphor bronze brush. This method however, is now more commonly used in Europe.

Step 2

After scrubbing out using both sides of a Herringbone 4″x 2″ patch in a Split brass or Nylon jag. This will remove all the contaminated solvent. The split jag is used by inserting a patch midway and longitudinally into the split and then rotating the patch in your hand in the direction you are going to tighten the patch and also twist the rod in use. Always check the chamber when cleaning and if there is powder residue around the forcing cone use a Chamber brush handle with a Payne Galway chamber brush to remove residue build up.

Step 3

Next oil the gun bores by using a clean Wool mop and some liberally applied Rangoon oil. Rangoon being a tenacious and slow evaporating oil allows the gun bore to be stored away for longer periods than usual. Occasionally wash out the wool mop with warm soapy water. Use paraffin or turps first if the mop is very dirty. Then when the mop is dry re-soak in clean Rangoon oil and we recommend you keep the mop in a fresh polythene sleeve or similar container.

Step 4

When storing your gun do not forget to first relieve the tension of the main springs by inserting a suitable pair of Snap caps and dry firing the gun. Then after if you install a Muzzle stuffer this will with the snap caps in place not only keep the oil vapour inside the barrel, but will also keep the dirt out and protect the end of the barrels against damage in your gun cabinet

Step 5

Before firing the gun again it is important to remove all trace elements of oil. Oil remaining in the barrel however slight could seriously rival the barrel walls due to hydraulic conversion process. Remove all superfluous oil with a patch and jag turning the patch over until it is clean. Always check the chamber before firing and if there is powder residue around the forcing cone remove it with a chamber brush. We advise you never to force a Payne Galway type chamber brush down the barrel as this type of brush will eventually come apart and may also damage the gun.

Tips and Final Word…

When cleaning a rifle or pistol use the same technique as for a shotgun except replace the split brass jag for a Diamond jag and change patch to the natural flannel type Rifle patch. To use the diamond jag place the jag diagonally across the patch at the end and rotate until the patch has wound fully around the jag. If the patched jag is too big for the bore in diameter, unroll a little of the patch at a time, trim and rewind same until the correct interference diameter is obtained. When cleaning continue to change the patches until the last patch discarded is entirely clean.

Lastly we would offer this good advise. Never be tempted to use a set of Gunmakers Turnscrews unless you are absolutely sure that the Turnscrew blade has been precision ground to the exact size of the slot in your gun screw and the tool steel is properly hardened. Engraved gun screws are very expensive to repair and the incorrect sized blade can very quickly cam out of the screw in question and may damage the gun screw or the finish on the gun. In some cases even injury to the user can occur. If you are unsure always ask you gun dealer for advise. If you must use a turnscrew on your gun make your that it is of good manufacturer not a cheap and poorly made import.

I hope this guide has helped you, feel free to contact the author with questions.

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Deer Hunting Tips – Using Scents For Post Rut Whitetail Deer

A frequent question by many who are fairly new to deer hunting is “What scent should I use?” This is especially true for those who hunt in the post-rut season.

First, some background info – you can lump all scents into two classes:

1. scents that attract, and

2. scents that mask other smells

Attractants are scents like deer odor, sex or a food scent, like apple or acorn. You would normally only use sex scents like buck lure, doe estrous, etc. during the rut when they normally occur.

Masking scents attempt to reduce the scent of something else. A good example is the common cover scents you can buy in the spray bottles to spray your clothes, boots, pack, and other gear to kill the human and other smells.

However, there are other masking scents that are more natural to the environment. LL Rue, the renowned photographer, naturalist, and writer often used fox urine around his blind to help mask his own scent.

Scents like this are not alarming to the deer because they occur naturally and foxes tend to mark their areas all the time.

Here are a few other tips to help you with scents in the field:

– NEVER put attractants on your clothing or boots. Use a drag cloth, put a few drops of attractant on it and drag it behind you when you head to the blind.

– Put a few drops of attractant on a cloth or wick and hang it on a limb within shooting distance of your blind

– Use less than you think. A deer is very sensitive to odors and has been described as 100 times more sensitive than that of humans.

– Pay attention to your own smells – use good scent reduction methods such as soaps for you and your clothes, only wear your hunting clothes in the field and keep them in a bag or sealed container when not in use.

The only one I would use post-rut would be a normal deer scent or possibly a food – and that only if it occurs naturally in that area at that time. For example – an apple smell in late season in the North when the temps are in the teens and there is snow on ground is not too natural!

You can use scents for whitetail deer hunting in the post-rut period but do it very lightly and only use those that are natural to the area that time of year.

There are so many more things to consider to be successful and the experienced hunter will pay attention to all of them if he wants to bag that big buck.

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The Basics on Rabbit Hunting-Shooting in Australia

Australia is considered to be one of the best places to go if you want to have a superb hunting trip. Here, you can go and hunt for various animals without having to worry about certain laws and restrictions. This is because hunting is considered to be more of a welcomed activity here rather than an illegal one.

One of the most common animals to be hunted down under would be rabbit. So, here are the essential things that you should know about rabbit hunting/shooting in Australia.

All About Survival

In general, rabbits are finely adjusted for survival on arid countries. Since they are small and has opposed incisors, they could selectively graze extremely close down the ground, and have the ability to choose their preferred pasture species. They also do not have the need to drink since they could get enough water from the pasture that they eat. However, it still depends on the condition especially if it’s extremely dry.

A Note On Urine

As drought intensifies, they usually pass less urine. They’re also able to have the urea of their urine concentrated during very dry conditions. This would reduce the volume by 75-80%. During periods of severe water stress, they would chew trees, shrub-barks and make use of their limited ability of climbing to obtain leaves and barks just to meet their needs of water. Additionally, adult are more tolerant of being dehydrated. According to studies, it was found that weight loss before dying due to dehydration could have an average of 48%.

Why Hunt Rabbits?

One reason why rabbits are hunted in Australia is because of the problems that they bring about. For one, they present forage competition. In general 80-100 rabbits eat as much as one 450 kg dry/steer cow. They also eat similar species of plant that cattle prefer, such as soft, highly nutritious, low fibre, annual herbs and grasses.

Other than competition, they also put extra grazing pressure upon the pasture. Important palatable species like Oat grasses tend to decrease too. They also prevent tree seedling recruitment, especially those of witchetty bush, which is an important topfeed. There are also times that they kill older trees. They do this by ringbarking them.

How To Know If It’s A Warren

Warrens or holes where they live are usually invariably bare. Hence, this makes their home prone to water erosion and wind. This is then a partial reason why their homes have a stony appearance compared to the surrounding ground. This is because during their digging period in the creation of their warren, they brought the stones up to the surface. This home of their usually cause stock injuries. They also become a nuisance especially when they gather.

Territorial Marks And Breeding Season

When it’s breeding seasons, they form social groups, which consist of 1-3 males and 1-7 females. Here, they have a defined hierarchy. A number of groups could live in one warren. For females, the dominant ones are the successful breeders. During this time, they also actively defend territories. They also feed in limited areas.

They mark territories by creating dung hills where anal gland secretion pellets are piled up. They also rub objects with their chin that has a special gland that produces odour. Males are the ones that usually do the territory marking.

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